Raaga means “Sweet melody”and indeed a joyful serenity suffuses this fine Indian Restaurant, whose stately white columns and whirring ceiling fans suggest a welcoming outpost in an exotic land. It is an ideal setting for sampling distinctive renditions of the rich, intricately flavored dishes purportedly favored by the Moguls centuries ago.

Here is Chicken Tikka Masala at its best; the smoky flavor of tandoori chicken assets itself through a creamy yogurt/lemon sauce decisively spiced with fenugreek. Lamb Rogan Josh (Cream curry sauce)is also very good and the lamb chops-marinated in ginger yogurt sauce and cooked in a clay oven could not be more butter tender. These Northern Indian favorites share applause with more exotic selections such as Salmon curry, a dish whose finely tuned spices evoke multiple, distinguishable tastes. Raaga’s extensive, moderately prices menu also offers 16 vegetarian specialties and nine breads, including the entree-rivaling Aloo paratha; (stuffed with seasoned mashed potatoes)and paneer Kulcha; (stuffed with cottage cheese and herbs. Cauliflower and other vegetables fried in a light batter for an appetizers go perfect with Raaga’s Tamarind sauce, which features dates and just enough red chilly powder to give it a nice kick. Mango and cardamom ice cream emulsified with bread to create an almost flaky texture, is transcendent.